Today our little corner of Beijing is celebrating Laba Festival, named for the date the festival falls each year on the lunar calendar. (The character 腊 “la” refers to the 12th month of the Lunar cycle and 八 “ba” as most know means “eight.”)
While it is mostly known as a Buddhist festival, the celebration’s origins of the holiday are a little obscure but seem to predate the arrival of Buddhism in China. Historically considered the coldest day of the year — and today’s weather in Beijing does little to challenge that — it was once part of the annual traditions of renewal and the coming of spring associated with the Lunar New Year.
As is the case with many holidays around the world, the practices and celebrations of a newer religion were layered onto older traditions to create new festivals and customs. With the expansion of Buddhism in China, this day took on a new meaning — as a celebration of the date on which Siddhartha Gautama, the historical Buddha, achieved enlightenment.
The custom of eating Laba Porridge (腊八粥) seems to have originated in northern China. Laba Porridge is generally sweetened with nuts and dried fruit. Beginning around the time of the Song Empire (960-1279), a new tradition emerged of rich households, scholarly families, and other members of the local elite would give food and other charitable alms to the poor on this day. That tradition continues, and every year temples throughout China open their doors and the resident monks serve a bowl of Laba Porridge to anyone — rich or poor — who wants one.
In Beijing, one of the most popular places to go during the Laba Festival is the Lama Temple (Yonghegong). Although the porridge is free according to tradition, you still have to pay the 25 RMB admission fee to get inside and be served. This morning, two of our Hutong staffers — Jeffrey Schwab and Julie Zou — waited in quite a queue for their bowl of Laba Porridge.
Other venues around town also give out porridge, and most do it for free (although alms are always appreciated!).
In Beixinqiao — where our courtyard is located — the neighborhood committee has a Laba Day Party/Talent Show at the local party HQ. As good neighbors, Jeffrey and our Finance Intern Kishan Badal volunteered to perform for the gathering of local functionaries and pensioners. Jeffrey played his banjo while Kishan, who is from Holland, sang a medley of Dutch children’s songs. Phoebe Han and our venue staff also assisted in the serving of the Laba Porridge and organizing the event. The highlight of the show was a slow-moving and elegant dance put on the by the neighborhood aunties, the oldest performer being well into her eighties! It might not have been quite as spectacular as the CCTV New Year’s Gala, but it was a good time, and Jeffrey and Kishan were huge hits with the local aunties.
If you’re in China during Laba, we recommend taking some time and visiting a local temple for your free bowl of porridge. No, it’s not “can’t miss” cuisine on the order of Peking Duck, but how often in this fast-paced modern world do we get to participate in a custom that dates back millennia?